INSULATION USING DRY LINING

Dry walling and insulation for the residence Dry lining is an easy method that can give the wall and ceiling constructions in your home a smooth finish. It can also contribute to the thermal performance of your home, particularly if it is adequately combined with some insulator that is bonded to the surface of plasterboard that is placed onto the wall or ceiling surface. Plasterboard is applied to brick, wood, and metal surfaces as part of a specific process that we will discuss in this article. As you can probably guess, we are talking about a particular approach. The alternative to this method is known as plastering, which is a procedure that is somewhat more difficult and requires extra supplies, such as water. Because of this, it should not come as a surprise that dry lining methods have become increasingly popular over the past fifteen years. This is primarily due to the fact that many manufacturers of insulation products have developed special plasterboards with insulation bonded to the surface, which adds to the insulation of your home. Now, the first distinction you need to make is the difference between dry lining techniques applied to timber and metal surfaces (in walls and ceilings) and masonry walls, because the structure and construction of masonry walls involves different methods of installation, different positioning, and different materials used. However, before beginning the process of installation, some concerns must be resolved and certain questions must be clarified, and this is true despite the fact that a distinction has been stated. Plasterboards need to be installed in a manner that is in compliance with the stud centers, therefore the first step is to make sure that accurate measurements are taken of the wall or ceiling. This may entail either obtaining boards that have already been cut to size or cutting the boards yourself so that they fit the surface to which they will be applied. Second, it is important to take into account the particular aspects of the environment in which the dry lining will be installed, particularly with regard to the presence of moisture and the risk of fire. Plasterboards that can withstand moisture should be a priority buy if you will be working in environments that are prone to high levels of humidity and condensation. Also, if there is a potential for fire, and particularly if the applicable regulations prescribe the level of protection, you should make sure to use fire-rated dry lining or even use two layers of plasterboards in order to meet the prescribed values. This is especially important if there are applicable regulations that prescribe the level of protection. Masonry or structures made of wood and other metals? As was noted earlier, various dry lining strategies are used depending on whether one is working with metal and wood structures (walls or ceilings) or brick walls. These strategies are utilized in accordance with the kind of structure being worked on. Plasterboards are typically applied to masonry walls using a technique known as “dot and dub,” which basically involves adding an adhesive to the wall surface that is used to hold the plasterboard, which needs to be checked both horizontally and vertically in order to achieve adequate aligning. Plasterboards are generally more difficult to apply to masonry walls than they are to timber frames, for example. This is because applying plasterboards to masonry walls is typically more complicated than applying them to timber frames. Now, if you are dry lining your wooden wall, you have two options for attaching the plasterboard to the wall: you may either tack it onto the wall with nails or screw it into the surface with screws. Either method will work. In any case, you need to make sure that you choose nails and screws of the appropriate size, ideally 40 mm nails and 25 mm screws. If you are having difficulties determining which choice to go with, the fact that screws will hold the plasterboard more firmly than the alternative of nails, but may need some extra equipment, may be something that may help you make your decision. Adhere to the appropriate measures of the wall, and do cut the boards so that they correspond with those specifications. It is important to ensure that the first fixings (nails or screws) are not too far apart from one another, as this will simplify the process. This is due to the fact that the fixings, and not you, will be the ones to hold the plasterboard panel, allowing you to focus your attention and energy on positioning the remaining fixings. However, regardless of whether you are going to use screws or nails, you need to make sure that you do not drive them in too deeply, as this might cause the paper envelope to get damaged. We strongly suggest that you begin the procedure by working on the edges rather than the center since doing so will not only make the process simpler but will also make it go more quickly owing to the fact that you will not have to conduct any extra measuring or cutting. Other fasteners should be positioned around the stud at a distance of 150 millimeters for nails and 200 millimeters for screws; nevertheless, you should verify this information and follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. If you are applying dry lining to your ceiling, the process is pretty much the same, but it can be a bit more tiring because you have to hold the boards up. Some additional advice is to place the fixings accordingly so you won’t have to hold the boards all the time, and it is also recommended that you choose some plasterboards that are lighter so you can rest your arms. Finally, it is very important to make an informed decision when selecting the dry lining materials; thus, you should always seek the advice of an expert or choose products made by companies with a good reputation. Keep in mind that not all plasterboards are created equal; therefore, it is important to always check the manufacturing specification. If you want to take things a step further, you can look for plasterboards that have been reinforced with some dry lining insulation material (like pir boards) or even those that have substantial acoustic characteristics to create a noise-free environment.